I'm staying in San Diego for the winter and have been able to do two of my favorite things: writing and
surfing.
I’m happy to
make progress on Crossing The Animas, but
surfing is a greater treat because I live most of the year in the
heartland. The problem with surfing is that it requires a cooperative ocean, a
rarity in Nebraska. On this visit to Pacific Beach, the ocean has been
semi-cooperative. We've had days of heavy breezes, tiny waves, and rain, but also plenty of days of good surf. During the week, the crowds have been reasonable, but the
weekends are a different matter. The two enemies of surfing are crowds in the water
and wind. A 56 hour workweek would fix one,
but Mother Nature seems to have a mind of her own.
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| Crowded Wave |
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| Wind Blown |
After a long
absence, I always wonder if can still surf. This is a young person’s sport, and
every time I look in the mirror, I’m reminded that I’m in a different category. Do I have the stamina, and more important, can
I handle a wave if I catch one. When you get older and stay inland most of the
year, surfing feels iffy. It’s
strenuous, especially when you don’t do it every day. The good news is that I continue
to enjoy myself and get a few good rides each time I go out.
One day will be my last day surfing, but happily, not this day.
One day will be my last day surfing, but happily, not this day.
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| Visit my Pinterest Board on surfing |
