A few days ago, I posted that I was going to Pacific Beach to get in a little surfing. The first day was blown out (windy), but I did have a great day yesterday. Sunny, with glassy conditions and 2-3 foot waves. Small, but about the right size for this old man.
The water was cold, but my wetsuit kept me toasty. The problem was getting the suit and booties on and off. What a pain. The new suits make Plastic Man look inelastic. You try to pull them off and they just stretch, and heaven help you if you get them doubled-up. In fact, I had a hernia operation a few years ago I blamed on hurrying to get my suit off.
I long for the good ol' days of my youth when we just threw on a bathing suit and shivered while waiting for a wave.
I'm not serious. I hate being cold. New wetsuit technology is a godsend, I'll just have to remain patient and take my gear off one step at a time. But I do like summers when a bathing suit and chafe guard is all you need.
By the way, I was the body-double for the O'Neil Wetsuit above. I also caught a double-overhead yesterday. (I write fiction, which means I lie for a living.)